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Where to Buy and How to Choose
Yarn and Needles
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You can purchase yarn and needles at any
of the following shops: Ewe First
Yarn Company off Bogard Road just at the Mat-Su Resort
sign in Wasilla; Aurora Beads on Swanson Street in
Wasilla; Fantastic Fibers on Cobb Street and
Just Sew on Alaska Street in Palmer; JoAnn’s in the
Creekside Plaza in Wasilla; Fred Meyer in Wasilla. |
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Yarns |
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Choosing a yarn for a project may seem
an overwhelming challenge, but it’s not. Here’s a bit
of information to get you started. We’ll talk about
yarns in each of the classes, and the Fiber
Lecture will touch on all those new fibers out there. |
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First and foremost, you must choose the right weight
of yarn. Do you need bulky, worsted, DK, sport, baby,
fingering, sock, lace? This information points you in
the right direction. Read the yarn label to see what
weight the yarn is. Most yarn companies have begun
using the following standardized symbols for weight.
Even patterns now use these symbols. So, if you match
the pattern symbol to the yarn label symbol, you’re off
to a good start.
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The gauge symbol on a yarn label shows stitches over 4
inches, so you have to divide by 4 to get stitches per
one inch, which is usually the gauge a pattern asks for.
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Next, to help you choose a yarn, determine the garment type, who
it is for, how it will be handled, and especially how it will be
laundered.
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Wool
is the best yarn, in my humble opinion. But it can be
itchy and can’t be tossed in the washer and dryer.
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Wool blends
(yarn with some wool content, and then other
fibers—acrylic, nylon, etc.) are softer, and many can be
washed and dried.
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Cotton
is a great yarn, but it can be heavy and it
stretches. Cotton blends with acrylic or modal or
tencel lighten
up the yarn nicely. They can usually be washed and dried
without trouble.
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Acrylic
yarns are soft, can be washed and dried, but can pill
over time. They’re good choices for kids who will spit
up all over or outgrow the item right away. They are not
your best choice for a garment you plan to put a lot of
time into, and hope to keep wearing for years to come. |
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As you learn to knit,
choose an acrylic, or a less expensive wool blend. Once
you get the hang of all this, and learn a bit about
fibers, you’ll be able to choose best for your next
projects.
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Universal Laundering
Symbols
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Hand Wash |
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Dry flat |
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Machine wash at
stated temperature |
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Drip dry |
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Machine wash at stated temperature |
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Line dry |
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Do not wash |
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Do not iron |
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Do not use chlorine bleach |
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Cool iron |
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Follow instructions to use chlorine bleach |
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Medium iron |
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Can be machine dried |
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Hot iron |
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Needles
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Each
yarn will recommend a particular needle size. The label
will tell you what gauge (number of stitches and rows to
4 inches) you will be getting with their yarn and
recommended needle size. Every pattern will tell you
what gauge you need to get when knitting that pattern. |
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Sometimes YOU won’t get the same gauge as on the yarn
label using their recommended needle size. If this
happens, try a size smaller or larger needle until you
DO get the gauge you need for your pattern. This is
MOST important when making a garment as it will not fit
if you don’t get gauge!
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As you learn to knit,
buy the needles recommended on the yarn label. That will
be close enough for our beginning projects. Once we get
to sweaters, however, you’ll have to have accurate gauge
swatching in your tool kit! This is something we talk
about extensively in the Math and Fiber
Lectures.
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I prefer and recommend that you buy wooden or bamboo
needles. They are warmer on your hands, and softer,
in that they bend just a bit as you work. You hands will
thank you. The new ‘plastics’ on the market are OK,
too.
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Metal needles
are cold on your hands, slippery, and the “knob” at the
end makes them bottom heavy—they can fall out of your
knitting easily.
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Circular
needles, which come in wood or a ‘plastic’ material,
are required for garments knit in the round.
However, they are also interchangeable with straight
needles—anything that is knit on straight needles can be
knit on circular needles. They allow you to hold your
hands/arms at a better angle than straight needles, and
they hold the bulk of your knitting in your lap, not at
the ends of the needles (this is especially nice when
you’re knitting a big sweater or an afghan—all that
weight rests nicely in your lap, on the cable connecting
the needles).
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Double pointed needles (again wood is the best!) are
for knitting smaller items in the round. They can be
used as straight needles in some projects, but they’re
shorter and don’t have the ‘stop’ at the end—your
stitches can just slide off the other end!
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